Monday, July 27, 2009

Classic Cookbook Series: The Classic Italian Cookbook


If I were to be put in solitary kitchen confinement with only one cookbook, as a practical matter, I'd probably take the 75th Anniversary Edition of "The Joy of Cooking". However, my heart would yearn for Marcella Hazan's "The Classic Italian Cookbook" (copyright 1973).

You see, Marcella was my first teacher and in that respect, is somewhat like my first love.

I stumbled upon my little paperback copy sometime in the early 80's and in those pages, I heard her speak to me.

One dark and stormy night (not kidding), after leaving work at 9:00 PM, I went home and made my first recipe: Spaghetti Ajo O Ojo (Spaghetti with Garlic and Oil). What could be simpler than olive oil, garlic, salt, spaghetti, ground pepper and parsley? It was food of the gods and a revelation that I could produce something so delicious. I confess that I ate too much and fell into a pasta-induced stupor afterwards, but still...

Then, came the Fettuccini with White Clam Sauce -- I still "benchmark" this dish, meaning that if I see it on a menu, I have to order it because I have to compare it to all the other versions I've eaten and so far, none compare to my rendition of her printed recipe.

Next, I tried and mastered Pasta al Pesto and life was never the same. I've yet to see or taste a better version than Marcella's.

Of all of the wonderful discoveries and adventures I've derived from this work, the best is a simple stew of olive oil, garlic, chickpeas, tomatoes, beef broth, and rosemary -- aptly, titled "Chick-pea Soup". The chickpeas are slowly cooked in the oven and develop a creaminess that puts them head and shoulders above any canned or stove top cooked version. The tomatoes are cooked in the garlic-infused olive oil until "the tomatoes separate from the oil" -- Forget how many minutes, know when to take the next step by looking at what is happening. No matter how much chick-pea soup I make, it is always gone too soon.

Marcella followed up with "More Classic Italian Cooking" which is also a good book and then both books were published as one. I have the combined version, but there are some differences between the original and the revised edition and I recommend tracking down the original which you can do here.

If you love to cook Italian food, you simply must own this book.

Food & Kisses, GiGi

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